pretty isn’t everything

Many years back I planted a rose gera­nium plant (Pelargo­nium grave­olens) and was close to pulling it out. The leaves had that inter­est­ing rosy, grassy rose-geranium scent, true enough, but the plant was sprawl­ing, leggy, and in its under­wa­tered spot looked nice only a cou­ple months a year.

What gave it a reprieve was the recipe in the Chez Panisse Desserts cook­book for rose gera­nium pound cake, a del­i­cate, sub­tle cloud of a dessert where even a tiny slice kept you cap­ti­vated with its hard-to-guess source of fla­vor. And the lit­tle ruf­fled leaves that you baked into the top of the cake were an awe­some decoration.

The kitchen remodel a cou­ple years ago involved a bull­dozer in the garden–usually not good news for the plants under its treads. The orig­i­nal rose gera­nium got squashed and dug up, and its orig­i­nal home is now a slab of con­crete in the din­ing area. (Check out the funny descrip­tion at Las Pil­i­tas nurs­ery for Pen­ste­mon Mar­garita B.O.P., a really cool plant that suf­fered a sim­i­lar fate, though for­tu­nately not until after it had been prop­a­gated. I never knew what the “B.O.P.” stood for until I read the note.)

Last week­end I finally bought a replace­ment. The small plant looked iden­ti­cal to what I’d grown before, but this one had a dif­fer­ent species name on the label, G. cap­i­ta­tum ‘Attar of Roses.’ The Dave’s Gar­den writeup shows big­ger, almost ivy-geranium-sized flow­ers on the plant, and the descrip­tion puts it at half the size of what I had before. And the scented gera­nium list at Herbal­pe­dia says there are at least 50 gera­ni­ums that have a rose scent.

Based on what I’ve seen from the plant, how­ever, I’m skep­ti­cal that my plant is much dif­fer­ent from the pre­vi­ous one. I’m not tak­ing chances. It went into the ground where it’ll be screened by a few other herbs.

Here’s the recipe in case you get moti­vated. Also check out the Herbal­pe­dia list above where you’ll find six­teen other recipes, plus lots more ideas of what to do with scented geraniums.

15–18 small rose gera­nium leaves
1 1/4 cups unsalted but­ter, soft­ened
1 1/3 cups sugar
3/4 tea­spoon vanilla extract
3/4 tea­spoon rose water
1 table­spoon plus 1 tea­spoon Cognac
6 eggs
1/8 tea­spoon mace
1/2 tea­spoon salt
1/2 tea­spoon cream of tar­tar
2 2/3 cups unsifted cake flour

But­ter and flour a 9-inch spring­form pan or a 10-inch bundt or tube pan. Rinse and dry the rose gera­nium leaves and arrange a dozen of the in a ring around the bot­tom fo the pan, under­sides up. Arrange the rest in the center.

Cream the but­ter until very light and fluffy. Beat in the sugar and con­tinue beat­ing until the mix­ture is fluffy again. Beat in the vanilla, rose water, and Cognac. Add the eggs one by one, beat­ing to incor­po­rate each one thor­oughly before adding the next one. Beat until the mix­ture is smooth. Mix the mace, salt and cream of tar­tar into the flour and sift the flour over the but­ter mix­ture in four por­tions, beat­ing just until each one is mixed in. Care­fully spoon some of the bat­ter into the pan to anchor the leaves in place. Pour the rest of the bat­ter into the pan and smooth it. Tap the pan on the counter to force out any air bubbles.

Bake in the cen­ter of a pre­heated 325 degree oven for about an hour and a quar­ter, or until a tooth­pick inserted in the cen­ter comes out clean. Cool. Turn out of the pan and option­ally dust lightly with pow­dered sugar that’s been stored with a vanilla bean. (I like it just fine with­out this step.)

August 07 2008 04:36 am | Categories: my garden | Tags:

2 Responses to “pretty isn’t everything”

  1. Greg on 07 Aug 2008 at 7:28 pm #

    Oh, what a cool sound­ing recipe. Thanks for remind­ing me: I need a bundt pan!! Will have to get me a rose-scented gera­nium for next season!

    Sad story about the demise of that poor BOP. At least the seeds had already been saved. Sounds like a great plant, though.

  2. [ Lost in the Landscape ] » our big food swap on 27 Aug 2010 at 6:33 am #

    […] Peo­ple weren’t con­vinced that rose gera­nium was edi­ble, so I also brought a cou­ple recipes. [ Here’s one of them. […]

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