
On my recent Chicago visit I had the chance to stop by Frank Lloyd Wright’s landmark 1909–1911 Robie House in the Hyde Park neighborhood. Unfortunately the foundation that runs it was in the middle of a major renovation inside. Even through we were on an architectural tour the only way to view the interior on this day was stand outside and peer inside through the stained glass windows.


Ooh… (Looking inside, off the second story porch into the nearly finished space…)

Uhhh… (The ground floor, still in the throes of renovation…)
Once we got that out of our system we had to concentrate on the exterior of the building and the gardens. I could think of worse things to have to do.

A pair of side gates opens up to an auto court with a small garden on the side. It was winter and the plantings weren’t any too spectacular this time of year, but the hardscape details were worth a close look.

The thin, wide bricks of the house and garden walls all feature this neat little detail: The mortar between the courses is the typical light mortar color, but the horizontal spaces between the bricks uses a red-colored mortar. The effect is that you notice horizontal bands and not the individual bricks. The house swoops sideways towards the horizon, and the walls do the same, celebrating the ever-expanding horizontal prairie that makes up the Midwest.
Several of the corners of the porches feature these stylized urns. Instead of the chubby Roman models, Wright has designed them to swoop sideways just like the house and walls do.



And there are several of these planters that explode with color in the summer. But now…well, not so green. The story goes that Wright designed these planters without drainage–something that comes as no surprise from an architect who was obsessed with form over function and notorious for creating houses with leaky roofs and suspended terraces that sagged under their own weight.
As I reviewed the photos from the Robie House, though, there’s one thing that starts to gnaw on me. Though it doesn’t look huge, it’s still something like 9000 square feet if you count the outdoor terraces. All the outdoor spaces seemed squeezed in there. Was this a space-intensive urban use of a small lot? Or was it a hundred-year-old McMansion? Even if that, it’s pretty cool as McMansions go…
February 28 2009 | Categories: art • gardening • landscape • landscape design • photography • places | Tags: architecture • brick • Chicago • concrete • Frank Lloyd Wright • garden walls • planters • Robie House • walls | 8 Comments »

I’m not sure what I was expecting out of Chicago’s Lurie Garden in the middle of February.
The core of the garden is a space concentrating on perennials planted by Piet Oudolf, and the winter garden was defined by what perennials do in the winter. Even though Oudolf has selected plants that maintain strong profiles into the winter, the garden looks like it’s seen better days. But really, that’s the outlook that the designer brings to the garden: Things change. Plants grow, bloom, die back. (Oudolf’s book Designing with Plants, after all, even has a chapter called “Death.” What feel-good garden book would even dare to acknowledge such a thing?)

The path through the heart of the garden was off-limits—I guess they were worried about people slipping and falling on the frozen walkways. Still, you can experience the garden’s perimeter with the Chicago skyline behind it. There you see the died back remains of last year’s growth: tall, dark spires of foxglove relatives (probably Digitalis ferruginea or parviflora); light brown clumps of various grasses; delicate, expressive curtains of burnet (Sanguisorba officianalis alba).
No gardener can begin to know every plant on earth, so I’m depending on my identification on the garden’s terrific plant list that you can find online and on what I know from Oudolf’s books to be some of his favorite plants. (Actually, the Plant Life of the Lurie Garden pages have not only plant lists, but photos and cultural tips on most of the plants in the garden. It got to be one of the most impressive online guides to a garden.)
Although probably most famous in the garden community for the perennial plantings, the Lurie Garden was actually overseen by Kathryn Gustafson (with other members of her firm, Gustafson, Guthrie, Nicholand) with input from artist/set designer Robert Israel. Gustafson contributed the overall landscape design, while Israel is credited with the “conceptual review,” signalling that this is a garden of ideas as much as it is a garden of plantings.

The central garden features two sections, a “light plate” and a “dark plate,” representing tectonic geological forces. (Kustafson’s office is in Portland, Israel is based in Los Angeles. Both are locations where people think more about geological movement than they do here in Chicago.) Protecting the garden on two sides is this giant armature that will mature into a hedge that represents Chicago as the city of “broad shoulders,” as made famous in Carl Sandburg’s 1916 poem, “Chicago.”

With Oudolf’s plants now retreating into the ground or only defined by ghosts of themselves, it’s Gustafson’s contribution that you notice most in the middle of winter. The curious structure of dark steel with dark metal cables looks like a zoo pen containing tightly planted alternating blocks of different arborvitae varieties and deciduous hornbeam and European beech. One of the deciduous trees is interesting in that it that holds on to its leaves through the winter. As the year progresses, I can see the deciduous plants leafing out at different times, reducing the contrast between the evergreens and the broadleaf trees.
The effect of the caged greenery is an odd effect, for sure. Any clipped hedge talks about the control of nature, and to put nature in a cage like this, like a botanical zoo, reinforces that almost violent act. It’s not a “pretty” effect, and I’m not sure I love it. But it catches my interest and reinforces this as a garden of ideas.
In the end I guess my reaction to the Lurie Garden in February is similar to what I feel when I hold a dormant bulb. I can appreciate the thing in its current state, but it’s the hope and knowledge of what it can do that really keeps me interested. It’s not really fair to try to give it a fair read in the middle of winter. Too bad I won’t be back every couple of months to check on its progress.
If staring at died-down perennials and caged shrubbery isn’t your cup of java, all you need to do to cross the street to the Art Institute of Chicago. There you’ll find all sorts of amazing artwork celebrating warm, green landscapes, including this lily pond by Monet…
…and this Tahitian landscape by Gaughin.
Paintings and so much of what humans do is all about permanence and things not changing. We purposefully make things that resist change, whether it’s paint that doesn’t fade or Twinkies that will probably remain as edible in three decades as they are today. The garden across the street celebrates what does change.
Give the garden just a few months. The perennials will be spectacular once spring gets going. And the “hedge” will fill in over the next decade and read more like a hedge than a zoo exhibit.


When you’re visiting the Lurie Garden you’ll be just a few dozen steps from Frank Gehry’s brawny new shell for pops concerts on a lawn covered by this lattice trellis structure.

And then there’s this sculpture by Anish Kapoor titled “The Cloud Gate”–which the locals have dubbed “the bean.” It’s major fun to walk around its concave and convex surfaces that give you this cool, distorted reflection of the skyline.

With its convex exterior and concave interior, this is artwork that will make you look fat, a fact that this self-portrait can attest to…
I’m not sure whether it was intentional, but the Gehry bandshell and the Kapoor sculpture and the shoulder hedge of the garden all feature steel–a material that makes possible the skyline that rises around them. Chicago without steel? Unthinkable.
And now, Chicago without the Lurie Garden, the Gehry bandshell and the Kapoor Cloud Gate? Unthinkable, as well.
February 27 2009 | Categories: art • gardening • landscape design • places | Tags: Anish Kapoor • architecture • Art Institute of Chicago • Chicago • Frank Gehry • hedges • Lurie Garden • Millennium Park • Piet Oudolf • steel | 5 Comments »
It’s winter here in Chicago alright. There wasn’t much snow on the ground when I arrived, but a quick look at the leafless trees and a quick duck outside didn’t leave any confusion that it’s any season other than winter. I’ve been pretty busy attending a conference, but I did manage to take a little architectural tour the other day with some of the other conferees.

Here’s a nice house in the Hyde Park neighborhood as seen from the bus. Notice the wintry-looking bare trees. Brrrr, cold, said the California blogger.
Though nice, the house isn’t a major architectural landmark. However, as of last month, it became an important historical one: This is the non-White House residence of Barack Obama. Actually, it’s the side of the house. The road on the front side has been sealed off by the Secret Service.

That in part sums up the experience of visiting here in the winter. There’s a lot of stuff that would be really interesting–if only it were open. Or you see stuff that’s maybe not looking its best.
Still, there are at least a couple bloggable things I’ve run across that I’ll be posting after I return home. If only this were May, when the gardens are looking more extravagant and the garden bloggers will be convening for their Spring Fling…
February 21 2009 | Categories: gardening • places | Tags: Barack Obama • Chicago • Hyde Park • seasons • winter | 4 Comments »
In case any of you missed the posting back in September, over at Mr McGregor’s Daughter, be sure to mark your calendars for the 2009 Spring Fling of garden bloggers in Chicago. The dates are set for May 29–31, a perfect time to visit the Lurie Garden (after hanging with the other bloggers, of course).
Unfortunately, my only 2009 Chicago trip will be in February. But for those of you who can make it this should be a great way to finally meet some of your fellow garden bloggers. From all the reports the 2008 Spring Fling in Austin was amazing, and this should be at least as great. Be sure to blog about it big time (and I know all of you will)–Make those of us who can’t be there leaf-green with envy!
December 12 2008 | Categories: rambles | Tags: blogging • Chicago • Spring Fling | 1 Comment »
Work will be taking me to Chicago in mid-February. My first reaction to the conference organizers’ choice of location and time was something approaching disbelief. Chicago in February? I don’t have that many layers of clothing in my closet!
Mind you, you’re listening to a wimp from San Diego. I’ve been getting distressed that the nights are starting to drop below 50 degrees. I feel like I need to count my fingers and toes every time I come back indoors to be sure they haven’t frozen off.
My first trip to Chicago as an adult was just over a decade ago, and I quickly fell in love with all the cultural benefits of the place. Its museums, architecture and restaurants are nothing short of amazing. Those are all pretty much indoor things, however. What’s a wimpy subtropical gardener and outdoors person to do?
On the top of my list of things to see in Chicago is the Lurie Garden, designed by Gustafson Guthrie Nichol Ltd, Piet Oudolf and Robert Israel. Aside from the Battery in New York, I believe it’s Oudolf’s only public work in the U.S.
Left: The Lurie Garden in June. (Photo by Torsodog via the Wikimedia Commons [ source ])
But the garden in February? Even though Oudolf tries to incorporate natural cycles into his designs, creating spaces that honor and celebrate the natural changes in the world, I suspect that February will be a harsh test.
Still, even if it’s an amazing place in February, I’ll know that I’ll have missed one of the main points of the garden. This is a garden-as-process. It’s not about looking gorgeous for a few weeks of the year. Instead it’s dedicated to the changes that happen as the seasons progress. (From the photos I’ve seen, it also happens to look great most of the year…)
It’ll be like stepping into a concert hall to hear a few quiet minutes of a piece of music that lasts much longer. Even if those few minutes are amazing, that music is a living thing that has a life longer that what you’ve experienced. You leave the hall sensing that you’ve missed some amazing moments.
I suspect that’ll be how I feel after I leave Chicago.
December 11 2008 | Categories: gardening • landscape • places | Tags: Chicago • Piet Oudolf • travel | 2 Comments »