herbs for a dry garden

dryland-herbs_rosemary

Is there any­thing bet­ter than fresh herbs from the garden?

For years I had herbs in my fairly dry veg­gie gar­den. Some of the herbs herbs thrived. Oth­ers sulked. Some died.

For­tu­nately, if you’re try­ing to cut down on water­ing, you still have a huge num­ber of herbs to choose from. For instance, many of the plants that you think of imme­di­ately when you hear the word “herb” orig­i­nate in the Mediter­ranean, and many of them pre­fer less mois­ture than other gar­den plants.

Below, I’ve listed some com­mon herbs that have done well for me dry spots, along with oth­ers that I’ve seen doing well in quite dry con­di­tions. There are lots of other selec­tions, but this list can get you going with more than a summer’s worth of recipes.

  • Rose­mary (Ros­mar­i­nus offic­i­nalis): You can pick from forms that sprawl, form a shrub, or grow straight up in spires.
  • dryland-herbs_purple-sageSage (Salvia offi­cianalis): Euro­pean Gar­den sage comes in lots of ver­sions in leaf color (green, golden, tri-color or pur­ple) and fla­vor (“sage” fla­vor, pineap­ple, or grape).
  • Oregano (Ori­g­anum vul­gare)
  • Mar­jo­ram (Ori­g­anum majo­rana)
  • Thyme (Thymus spp.): Some thymes, includ­ing many of those sold for orna­men­tal ground­cover use (such as T. ser­pi­phyl­lum) are only slightly scented or not at all. The culi­nary bush forms gen­er­ally have more scent and fla­vor, and they come in a wide range, includ­ing lemon and lime. They also tend to be more tol­er­ant of dry conditions.
  • Laven­der (Lavan­dula spp.): There are sev­eral laven­der species, as well as plenty of hybrids and vari­eties. All are at least some­what drought tol­er­ant. Some extremely so.
  • dryland-herbs_rose-geranium Scented gera­ni­ums (Pelargo­nium spp.): Take your pick of rose, apple, cin­na­mon, nut­meg, pineap­ple, lemon, lime, apri­cot and others.
  • Worm­wood (Artemisia spp.)
  • Mex­i­can oregano (Lip­pia grave­olens)
  • Fen­nel (Foenicu­lum vul­gare): Beau­ti­ful and tasty plants, but they’re con­sid­ered inva­sive in many loca­tions (includ­ing the entire Cal­i­for­nia floris­tic province). Research before you plant! There’s an attrac­tive bronze ver­sion that’s reputed to be less inva­sive. Still, I wouln’t plant it if reg­u­lar fen­nel is a prob­lem in your area.
  • Nas­tur­tium (Tropae­olum majus): With edi­ble, pep­pery leaves and flow­ers, some peo­ple con­sider this an herb. As with fen­nel, above, it can be inva­sive. Don’t plant it if it could escape. (Many of the moister hill­sides here in San Diego are cov­ered with the stuff.)
  • Lemon grass, both West-Indian (Cym­bo­pogon cit­ra­tus) and East-Indian (C. flex­u­o­sus): Sources tell you these plants like water, but I’ve found that they don’t mind going dry occa­sion­ally, espe­cially if they’re given some shade.

dryland-herbs_sweet-marjoram

Good eats!

May 24 2009 | Categories: gardeningmy garden | Tags: | 5 Comments »

true blue sages

There are plenty of names for shades of blue: azure, cerulean, indigo, cobalt, ultra­ma­rine, sky, and navy. And then there’s even the spe­cial syn­thetic intense ultra­ma­rine shade that artist Yves Klein patented under the name “Inter­na­tional Klein blue.”

A visit to a nurs­ery, how­ever, seems to come up with only a short list of plants hav­ing flow­ers that are truly, intensely blue. Among the more com­mon plants pan­sies, del­phini­ums, peri­win­kles and corn­flow­ers would qual­ify. But decades of breed­ing attempts with roses and pha­laenop­sis and cat­t­leya orchids have failed to pro­duced any­thing other than pale mau­vey or laven­derey col­ors, mainly because those plants don’t pro­duce the nec­es­sary blue pig­ments in the first place.

There are lab­o­ra­tory sub­jects that have been genet­i­cally mod­i­fied to carry the genes to pro­duce blue pig­ment, and they’re pro­duc­ing flow­ers that are knock­ing on the door of being blue. For a flower to be blue, how­ever, in addi­tion to hav­ing the right pig­ments, the pH of the petals has to be absolutely cor­rect. Oth­er­wise you get pinks or more of those close-but-no-cigar col­ors like lilac. (If you’ve played with alter­ing the color of hydrangea blos­soms or mak­ing lit­mus paper change from pink to blue you’re already famil­iar with the con­trol­ling effects of acid­ity. Of course the big dif­fer­ence is that you can accom­plish hydrangea color change with­out going into the lab.) The basic genetic mod­i­fi­ca­tion process creeps me out a bit, and genetically-modified car­na­tions are sen­si­bly banned from Europe.

For­tu­nately the sage genus, Salvia, con­tains a num­ber of species with flow­ers that require no genetic manip­u­la­tion to achieve their amaz­ingly blue col­ors. I’ve devoted a cor­ner of my gar­den to three of them: ivy-leafed sage, arrow-leafed sage, and gen­tian sage.

Three salvias compared

The three species com­pared, left to right: Salvia patens ‘Oceano Blue,’ S. cacali­ae­fo­lia, and S. sagit­tata.

The ivy-leafed sage, Salvia cacali­ae­fo­lia, is a robust grower, four to five feet tall and as big around as you’ll let it get. I’m start­ing to call it the “walk­ing sage” because it can set down roots where the fairly lax stems touch the ground. It also sends up new stems from run­ners, though these don’t wan­der too far from the plant. Ram­bunc­tious, yes, but the plant has been eas­ily con­trolled with the help of Mis­ter Prun­ing Shears.

Ivy-leaved sage flower Ivy-leaved sage plant

As its com­mon name would sug­gest the leaves are a lit­tle ivy-like, tri­an­gu­lar, three inches in length, and a pleas­ant medium green color. The spaces between the paired leaves can approach eight or nine inches, mak­ing the plant look a lit­tle stemmy and infor­mal, but I find the mound­ing plant to be grace­ful and attractive.

Before the flow­ers open the buds develop an intense, almost indigo-blue shade, about as close to Inter­na­tional Klein Blue as you’ll find in the gar­den. The buds open to clean blue flow­ers, fairly sim­ple tubu­lar affairs that are about and inch and a quar­ter long. What the flow­ers might lack in size and showy com­plex­ity they make up with their sheer pro­fu­sion. The plant went into the ground Novem­ber 18 of last year, and it’s never been with­out flow­ers except for when the sprin­kler or heavy rains knocked them off. Har­di­ness reported to Zone 9.

The arrow-leafed sage, Salvia sagit­tata, grows smaller than the pre­vi­ous species. So far, for me, the plant is maybe two feet tall and three wide, with the inflo­res­cence adding a foot to the height. True to name, the leaves are shaped like an arrow­head. They eas­ily attain six inches in length, and have an attrac­tive light, almost lime-green col­oration. Towards the end of the sea­son the plant can lose its lower leaves and get leggy, so you might want to plant some­thing small and mound­ing near the plant to dis­guise the stems. (I’ve planted some lime thyme.)

Arrow-leaved sage flowerArrow-leaved sage plant

The flow­ers are about the same size as those of the ivy-leaved sage, and take the form of small tubes with one petal mod­i­fied to form a frilly lit­tle “skirt”–a handy plat­form for insects to land on. (If this were an orchid, the flower part would be called the label­lum, the “lip.”) The blooms float on thin, dark stems that make them look like exotic lit­tle but­ter­flies hov­er­ing over the plant. Their color is a vivid medium blue color, a main-line blue so pure it doesn’t need a fancy name. Peak bloom runs from May to late fall in San Diego. Con­sid­ered a ten­der peren­nial, prob­a­bly hardy into Zone 9.

The gen­tian sage, Salvia patens, is the newest addi­tion to my gar­den. The clone I chose is ‘Oceano Blue.’ So far the plant is about 30 inches tall and 15 wide, def­i­nitely the most con­strained of these three species. Leaves are oval-to-pointed (“ovate”), medium-dark green, and about two inches long.

Gentian sage flower Gentian sage plant

The flow­ers are almost iden­ti­cal to arrow-leaved sage in color–an intense medium blue–but the flow­ers are huge by con­trast, exceed­ing two inches in length and height. The petals have a dis­tinct for­ma­tion that makes me think of a crab claw. I haven’t grown it through the warmest months, but it has a rep­u­ta­tion for slow­ing down in its florif­er­ous­ness, some­thing I’m begin­ning to observe. Har­di­ness reported to Zone 8.

And what about the com­mon bed­ding plant Salvia fari­nacea ‘Vic­to­ria Blue,’ the mealy cup sage? It can be a great plant, par­tic­u­larly in warmer, less humid cli­mates and sea­sons when pow­dery mildew isn’t an issue. The flow­ers, how­ever, range more towards blue-violet, not a pure shade of blue. So if you’re a blue purist, fuggedaboutit.

June 21 2008 | Categories: my gardenplant profiles | Tags: | No Comments »